Eight surfaces. One of them is right for you.
Picking a driveway surface in 2026 is harder than it used to be. Porcelain? Resin bound vs bonded? Imprinted concrete? Every contractor pitches whatever they make the most margin on. Here's the actual comparison — the one nobody writes down until now.
| Surface | Cost / m² | Lifespan | Maintenance | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Block Paving | £85–£140 | 25+ yrs | Low | Kerb appeal, repairability |
| Tarmac | £50–£80 | 15–20 yrs | Very low | Large drives, value |
| Resin Bound | £110–£160 | 20+ yrs | Very low | Modern look, permeability |
| Gravel | £45–£80 | 10+ yrs | Medium | Cottage, quick install |
| Concrete | £75–£120 | 30+ yrs | Very low | Heavy vehicles, longevity |
| Tar & Chip | £55–£85 | 15–20 yrs | Low | Rural drives, estates |
| Cobblestone | £180–£300 | 50+ yrs | Low | Heritage, period homes |
How to pick without getting sold to
Answer these three questions before anyone quotes you:
- What's the single most important factor — price, looks, or longevity? (You can't have all three. Anyone who says you can is lying.)
- How much drive — under 40m², 40–80m², or more? (Tarmac and gravel get cheaper per m² at scale. Block paving doesn't.)
- Are you staying 10+ years, or selling in 3? (Changes everything about the maths.)
Honest answer, from people who dig for a living:
If you want the "safest" pick and the drive will be there a long time — block paving. Repairable, decades of service, always looks intentional.
If price is the headline and it's a big drive — tarmac.
If you want the neighbours asking "how did you get that?" — resin bound.
If the house is pre-1920 and in a conservation area — cobblestone or gravel.
Why the installer matters more than the surface
Here's the truth the industry buries: a £100/m² block paving drive laid badly is worse than a £55/m² tarmac drive laid properly. The surface is maybe 30% of the outcome. The other 70% is the ground you never see.
That's why our quotes list the sub-base depth (150mm Type 1), compaction method (plate compactor, in 75mm layers), edge restraint (concrete-haunched, not sand), and drainage (SUDS-compliant by default). Compare it to the next quote you get. If their quote doesn't specify those four things — you don't have a quote. You have a prayer on paper.
The Moore driveway market — what you're actually competing with
We've been doing this in Moore for three decades. In that time we've re-done hundreds of driveways that were laid by cheaper outfits. The pattern is always the same:
- Year 1 — looks fine, everyone's happy.
- Year 2 — first winter, slight sinkage near the entry.
- Year 3 — weeds in the joints, edges starting to shift.
- Year 4–5 — full structural failure, homeowner rings us.
By that point they've paid twice: once for the failed drive, once for us to rebuild it properly. The total? About 2.3x what a proper install would've cost in year one.
What you save when you do it once, properly
- Money — no rebuild in year 5. No emergency patch-ups. No repeat hardcore deliveries.
- Time — one job, not three.
- Stress — no chasing the original installer who's blocked your number.
- House value — valuers dock 1–3% off "tired driveway" properties. A proper drive is a sale accelerant.